The Start of the new family

In humans, we choose the right characteristics of a mate based on what we subliminally want in future generations. Every offspring is chosen biologically to survive by several factors. With proper care and considerations, they are born to live a purposeful life and recreate at their own interval.

Chickens follow the same rules. Each egg is carefully chosen by its caretaker long before hatch date. Whether that caretaker is the feathered or human variety. Here are some considerations when obtaining your first incubating eggs:

Size: is it too small, large? you want to choose an average size egg. Too large and it might be a "double-yoker". This is common, but rarely do they hatch out successfully. This happens when nutrition is to blame. Consider rationing treats. Too small? This normally happens with a young hen. Try to wait until your layer is well established before gathering eggs from her.

Shape: Make sure to choose a typical shaped egg. As the baby chicken inside the egg matures the air sac gets smaller, and mis-shapen eggs may not allow the same amount of air sac. This is less common then size issues, but it happens from time to time. The egg is perfectly suitable for eating, just not creating a new chicken.

Shell: Is it too hard, too soft? Gently pressing on the egg should not cause any cracks to appear, but if excessive force needs to be used to crack one, the shells are too hard. If they are too soft- try adding a calcium-rich grit to their coop. This is done by adding oyster shell straight to their feed or as a separate option near the feed. If the shells are too tough, reduce the amount. I will throw it in their run as scratch if the shells get too hard, this makes them go search for it if they want it. 

The day or the day before you plan on starting to incubate, start to gather your eggs. You want to collect only eggs that fit the criteria above and that are very fresh. 24-48 hours since laid. Be extremely gentle when handling them, I will put mine in a towel lined basket, plenty fluffed so they don't shift too much with the walk from the coop to the house. Once inside, I candle them just enough to see if there is any hairline cracks not visible on the outside. Also, if it is a newer to laying hen that it is not a wind egg. A wind egg is an egg that has no yolk. Its very common in newer hens. If the eggs are very dirty I take a dry soft cloth and gently try to rub some dirt off. A mother hen lays each egg with an outside coating called a bloom. This protects the egg so you do not want to clean them or rub it too hard. Eggs are extremely porous as well, so I recommend washing your hands before handling them. I then leave the eggs in the basket while I set up my incubator.

Since the type of incubators used varies so wildly, I will explain my use of the brand I use. My incubator. Setting up your incubator at least 4 hours before placing eggs inside. If you just bought yours, disinfect it thoroughly by taking a teaspoon of bleach to 1 gallon of water and a soft cloth to go over every nook and cranny. My incubator also has an automatic egg turner that I needed to wash as well. Once completely rinsed and dried, you can set it in an area where the ambient temperature wont fluctuate too much over the course of about a month. Depending on the species of chicken or ducks you are attempting to hatch your incubation period will range from 16 days to 31 days. Most come with a plastic grate that fits snugly in the bottom. On top of this grate, and below the egg turner (if it is being used) I fold paper towels. I do this to make the transition from turner to grate faster and easier, and clean up after incubation alot easier on the Styrofoam. 3 days before your expected hatch date you will want to remove the turner (if you used one) and gently place the eggs on your paper towels where you will not touch them again until 24 hours after your expected hatch date. Set your heat according to the included directions with your incubator on the species your attempting to hatch, and adjust the humidity. This heating and humidity can take hours, so by being prepared before placing eggs, the start of incubation will be successful. Humidity levels inside your incubator are very important. I regulate mine with clean sponges, two very damp brand new sponges. if my humidity gets too high I simply take one or both out. There are regulators that can be bought, special wicks that can be used, and even the directions say to fill the reservoirs under the grate with water. I did not do this because the first time I ever attempted to place water in it, I didn't realize there are holes to allow excess water out. I ended up with water everywhere except the reservoirs and it was evaporated so fast that I had to refill too often. Once you reach your appropriate temperature, you do not want to open your incubator unless it is necc. The sponges hold alot more water anyways, and if the humidity is too high, I can simply take one out which I cant do if the water is under the egg turner, paper towels and grate.

So, your eggs are ready, incubator is cleaned, to temp and ready to go. But your still nervous, don't be. It can be intimidating at first, but with enough research and dedication; you will understand and get the hang of it. If you are nervous, try incubating white duck eggs first. They are twice as big as a chicken egg, and being white makes candling them very easy. Speaking of candling:

This is a very simple process. Normally it is done 2-3 times within your incubation period. It helps to have all of your schedule on a calendar near your incubator so that you remember when each step is to be done. Find a flashlight and a dark room. Take an egg you plan to incubate and gently put the small end near the flashlight.

Second candling. This is what it should look like by day 7 of incubation. Your first candling should be done before placing the egg within the incubator to ensure the yolk is intact and no hairline cracks are present. As you can see in the picture, the veins are very pronounced, a dark spot in the middle which is the embryo is not moving freely, and at the top a small air sac is present. This is considered a viable egg. Viable eggs mean that the egg is in fact, fertilized and growing according to schedule. If none of these facts exist, and you are following your calendar, as well as ensuring humidity and temperatures are normal, then the egg will not become a chick and is not worth keeping.

Hatching out will be discussed in my blog. Stay tuned!